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2010/06/19 Sat 08:13:43 
MicroBacter7/Vodka dosing guide
Before reading what I have to say below be sure to check out the links below:
(This will give you a general idea on how much vodka to dose)
Vodka Dosing by 'Genetics' and 'Stony_Corals' - Reefkeeping.com
(This is a simple overview of the vodka dosing trend in this hobby)
Gimme a Vodka, on the Live Rocks, with a Splash of Heavy Skimming. (03/30/10) / Feature Articles - Quality Marine
Basically, the ethanol in vodka feeds bacteria in your aquarium which in turn multiply. When the bacteria multiplies it consumes N03 and P04. The bacteria, along with the nutrients it has consumed is then exported by a large protein skimmer. The bacteria, in this case MB7, is added in order to keep the bacteria diversified and help stave off red slime. You can dose vodka alone but I wouldn't recommend it.
When I first setup my current tank I had been adding Microbacter7 from Brightwell aquatics. While this help the tank I wasn't all that impressed. It wasn't until I started dosing vodka that things really took off. Within a month of dosing vodka I no longer had to use GFO. Within 3 months I actually had to add Amino Acids and feed the tank more as it had become "too clean". The corals had lightened up and actually stopped growing. After cutting back a bit on the vodka dosage and adding more food the corals once again took off.
Please note that you MUST have a sufficient sized skimmer and proper aeration to employ this dosing system. Reefers have crashed their setups by not running a skimmer or having proper flow/aeration.
Here are some things I have observed when dosing MB7/vodka:
-My skimmer is pulling out more gunk then ever
-My water is even clearer now
-Polyp extension in corals has greatly increased
-Coral growth has exploded. Within two weeks of dosing I have counted 36 new, small coral heads coming out of my large mille.
-The sand bed is whiter.
-Glass and overflow box stay cleaner longer.
-Coraline algae has begun to show up on pumps and over flow.
-Some corals have lightened up even more.
-Red slime is appearing in spot it hasn't before.
-Bacteria is making my sand bed clumpy, so I have to gravel vac it twice a month.
Is vodka dosing for everyone? No. But for these of you willing to take the time to understand and implement this system it can change the way you go about reef keeping. The system is simple and cost effective, allowing you to achive near ocean like water quality without the use of expensive GFO or refugiums.
If you decide to dose MB7/Vodka here are some helpful tips:
MB7 (Bottle Instructions.)
Vodka (or carbon) Dosing - Vodka Dosing by 'Genetics' and 'Stony_Corals' - Reefkeeping.com
Probiotic Reef Keeping.
Time to dose = during lights on seems best. MB7 into the display. Vodka into the sump.
1) Need a good skimmer
Noticed in Water testing
1) high nitrates = increase vodka as per instructions.
2) no Nitrate/Po4 change in LONG time = try another carbon source like vinegar, sugar, biofuel...
3) low nitrates = maintain till 0 then reduce to maintenance levels of vodka
4) Increase in Alk = stop dosing Cal / alk, test water change h20 for alk level. Decrease with large water changes and/or chemicals if it gets bad. Corals may stop taking Cal/ALK while getting used to Probiotic system & increased light.
4) new tank/build = follow instructions, stay close to the low side of dosing.
5) Phosphate being high = a round of GFO
Noticed in Algae/Bacteria Reaction
1) Bacterial Blooms (slimy white strings) = too much bacteria, decrease vodka dosing.
2) algae on glass after increase of MB7 = reduce MB7 :P
3) brown dusting or brown hair like stuff = decrease MB7 (also check http://www.rimlessreef.com/1/post/20...eament-of.html )
4) cyano = increase MB7 and/or lower/stop vodka dose. After the cyano has gone away restart the vodka from the initial or maintenence dose. If it's really bad consider a "lights out" period. If really really bad consider "Red Slime Remover."
5) peach fuzz = stop or decrease (especially vodka) dosing for a while (about a week or till the fuzz dies off) then start back up with the maintenance dose. OR This may also just go away in time.
6) glass and sand getting dirtier = dose more/feed less
Noticed in Live Stock Reaction
1) Corals losing color = more feeding, possibly Amino Acids, lower photo period an hour for a while.
2) Corals Burnt Tips = check alkalinity..get it to 7-8 dKH by stop dosing alk...maybe stop dosing EVERYTHING if it gets bad.
3) Monti caps bleaching = Cut the vodka dosage in half and stay there until the cap starts to color up and/or lower the lighting photoperiod for a bit or have a light "day off."
4) Everything dies = Blame the wife, kids, or something other than your own possible mistakes )
1) substrate hardening = keep it broken up and siphoned with water changes. Maintain a good high PH of 8.1 - 8.3
Read more: MicroBacter7/Vodka dosing guide
2010/01/14 Thu 07:11:47 
200 x 85 x 70 cm - Display Tank
180 x 50 x 50 cm - Sump
Volume 440 US gallons
Calcium: 400 mg
pH: 7.8 - 8.0
Magnesium: 1250 mg
Temperature: 24.5 - 25.2
Po4 (Phosphate): Hanna 0.00 - 0.01 mg
No3 (Nitrate): generally 0 mg
Salinity: 35 PSU
Density: 1.026 Kg/m^3 (@ 25°C – 77°F)
Tritron 420 eco (21.000L) and Deltec 8070s as main pumps
Ati Powermodule 10x 80W + 3 x 80 W+ 4x 24W
2x KZ Fiji 80W , 6x ATI Blue plus 80W , 5x ATI Aquablue special 80W , 2x ATI blue plus 24W , 2x KZ fiji 24W 120W LED modular lamp in propagation tank
4 bulbs 80W on 12 hours a day: from 8 am to 9 pm
9 bulbs 80W + 4x24W on 7 hours a day: from 10 am to 5 pm
FILTRATION & ADDITIVES
ZeoBak 6 drops 2x week
ZeoStart 6 drops 2 x daily
Xtra 5 ml daily
AAHC 5 drops every other day
SP 4 drops every other day
Coral Vitalizer 30 drops 2 x week
Coral Snow 8 ml 2x week
ZeoZym 1 teaspoon 1x week
Jod-Complex 4 drops 1x week
Iron 5 drops 1x week
K balance if needed
Other Miscellaneous Maintenance
Every week I change 10% of water.
EQUIPMENT & MAINTENANCE
Controller: AT control - ph in tank , ph reaktor , redox , temp , conduct , water level Profilux - temp , ph and ligth ( Powermodule dimmable)
Ca / KH addition CACO2 reaktor + Balling method; liquids added via Grotech Tec III
Reverse Osmosis: RO/DI unit -90 l /day
Water Circulation: 4x Tunze 6205 + Red Dragon 6500
Cooling System: Teco 20
ZEOvit Reaktor Korallenzucht Magnetic ZeoVit Reactor L with 3.3 l zeovit
Protein Skimmer: Korallenzucht Revolution L
Fish Feedings: Mysid shrimp, Brine shrimp, Oyster eggs, Mussels, Red Plankton , Krill, Cyclop eeze, Microplankton + Nori
Animals are fed 4-5 times a day
2009/07/07 Tue 01:13:22 
200x100x60 - Display Tank
100x65x45 - propagation tank
130x60x52 - Sump
Volume ~ 395 US gallons
Calcium: ~430 mg
Magnesium: 1360-1390 mg
Po4 (Phosphate): 0,01-0,03 mg
No3 (Nitrate): generally 0-1 mg
Salinity: 35 PSU
Density: 1.026 Kg/m^3 (@ 25°C – 77°F)
Redox: ~ 480
2 x ATI powermodules: 10x39 W
1 x ATI powermodule: 4x80 W
1 x ATI powermodule: 10x39 W in a small propagation tank
6 bulbs for 12 hours
all 14 bulbs for 9 hours
2009/06/10 Wed 06:34:59 
For 3 years ATI powermodule consisting of 8 x 80 W T5 + 1 x 80 W
For the time being I'm using 1 x KZ Fiji Purple, 1 x KZ NG, 3 x ATI Blue plus and 3 x ATI Aquablue sp.
3 bulbs on 12 hours a day: from 9 am to 9 pm
6 bulbs on 7 hours a day: from 10 am to 5 pm
160x80x55 - Display Tank
110x50x52 - Sump
Volume ~198 US gallons
2009/05/28 Thu 00:40:20 
ATI Powermodule fixture: 10 x 80 watt bulbs