taka-tech memo



Tropic Marine BIO-ACTIF Salt 

Tropic Marineから販売されているBio-Actifの人工海水の素。DOCが意図的に入れられており、使用するにはプロテインスキマーが必要とされている。下の記述はこの塩の開発に関わったHans-WernerさんがRCにコメントつけたものです。

By Hans-Werner
I just want to show up some facts. The book of Sorokin on Coral Reef Ecology is the scientific book on coral reefs I like best because of its multitude of facts and because it brings them in context.
On page 66 Sorokin states that the content of reef water in organic C is around 1 to 3 ppm. The carbon content of starch is ca. 44.4%. If all the organic carbon over the reef would be starch or similar substances there would be 2.25 to 6.76 ppm in the reef waters. Why shouldn´t it be a good idea to add organic substances that for sure can be found in reef waters in significant amounts? In my eyes we have added something that was lacking in synthetic sea salts and not something additional in comparision to natural reef waters.

As you know for the measuring of organic carbon we would need special technology which we don´t have. The addition of organic carbon through feeding depends on the kind of feed and the amount that is fed. For example it seems to me that granular fish food does not contribute much to DOC. Besides this feed also add nitrogen and phosphates which speed up the degradation of DOC.

In the reefs there is DOC and POC that is more readily degraded by nearly any kind of bacteria and other that is only degraded by specialized bacteria with the necessary enzymes. We tried to support the latter ones. The introduction and initial support of this specialized microbiology is in my opinion one of the most important functions of live rock.
By Hans-Werner
I am convinced that a better understanding of the dissolved organic substances will be a big progress for reef keeping and maybe also for the understanding of the natural environment and maybe we can make some people curious to take a closer look on it.

Finally all this doesn´t matter. We tried something and it did work and we made the same observations that are described in this thread, polypextension, better colors, clearer water, so it seems a good improvement and a good innovation to us. Now it is up to the reef aquarists to decide whether it really is an improvement and a good innovation.


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MicroBacter7/Vodka dosing guide
Before reading what I have to say below be sure to check out the links below:

(This will give you a general idea on how much vodka to dose)
Vodka Dosing by 'Genetics' and 'Stony_Corals' - Reefkeeping.com

(This is a simple overview of the vodka dosing trend in this hobby)
Gimme a Vodka, on the Live Rocks, with a Splash of Heavy Skimming. (03/30/10) / Feature Articles - Quality Marine

Basically, the ethanol in vodka feeds bacteria in your aquarium which in turn multiply. When the bacteria multiplies it consumes N03 and P04. The bacteria, along with the nutrients it has consumed is then exported by a large protein skimmer. The bacteria, in this case MB7, is added in order to keep the bacteria diversified and help stave off red slime. You can dose vodka alone but I wouldn't recommend it.

When I first setup my current tank I had been adding Microbacter7 from Brightwell aquatics. While this help the tank I wasn't all that impressed. It wasn't until I started dosing vodka that things really took off. Within a month of dosing vodka I no longer had to use GFO. Within 3 months I actually had to add Amino Acids and feed the tank more as it had become "too clean". The corals had lightened up and actually stopped growing. After cutting back a bit on the vodka dosage and adding more food the corals once again took off.

Please note that you MUST have a sufficient sized skimmer and proper aeration to employ this dosing system. Reefers have crashed their setups by not running a skimmer or having proper flow/aeration.

Here are some things I have observed when dosing MB7/vodka:

-My skimmer is pulling out more gunk then ever
-My water is even clearer now
-Polyp extension in corals has greatly increased
-Coral growth has exploded. Within two weeks of dosing I have counted 36 new, small coral heads coming out of my large mille.
-The sand bed is whiter.
-Glass and overflow box stay cleaner longer.
-Coraline algae has begun to show up on pumps and over flow.

-Some corals have lightened up even more.
-Red slime is appearing in spot it hasn't before.
-Bacteria is making my sand bed clumpy, so I have to gravel vac it twice a month.

Is vodka dosing for everyone? No. But for these of you willing to take the time to understand and implement this system it can change the way you go about reef keeping. The system is simple and cost effective, allowing you to achive near ocean like water quality without the use of expensive GFO or refugiums.

If you decide to dose MB7/Vodka here are some helpful tips:

MB7 (Bottle Instructions.)
Vodka (or carbon) Dosing - Vodka Dosing by 'Genetics' and 'Stony_Corals' - Reefkeeping.com
Probiotic Reef Keeping.

Time to dose = during lights on seems best. MB7 into the display. Vodka into the sump.

1) Need a good skimmer

Noticed in Water testing
1) high nitrates = increase vodka as per instructions.
2) no Nitrate/Po4 change in LONG time = try another carbon source like vinegar, sugar, biofuel...
3) low nitrates = maintain till 0 then reduce to maintenance levels of vodka
4) Increase in Alk = stop dosing Cal / alk, test water change h20 for alk level. Decrease with large water changes and/or chemicals if it gets bad. Corals may stop taking Cal/ALK while getting used to Probiotic system & increased light.
4) new tank/build = follow instructions, stay close to the low side of dosing.
5) Phosphate being high = a round of GFO

Noticed in Algae/Bacteria Reaction
1) Bacterial Blooms (slimy white strings) = too much bacteria, decrease vodka dosing.
2) algae on glass after increase of MB7 = reduce MB7 :P
3) brown dusting or brown hair like stuff = decrease MB7 (also check http://www.rimlessreef.com/1/post/20...eament-of.html )
4) cyano = increase MB7 and/or lower/stop vodka dose. After the cyano has gone away restart the vodka from the initial or maintenence dose. If it's really bad consider a "lights out" period. If really really bad consider "Red Slime Remover."
5) peach fuzz = stop or decrease (especially vodka) dosing for a while (about a week or till the fuzz dies off) then start back up with the maintenance dose. OR This may also just go away in time.
6) glass and sand getting dirtier = dose more/feed less

Noticed in Live Stock Reaction
1) Corals losing color = more feeding, possibly Amino Acids, lower photo period an hour for a while.
2) Corals Burnt Tips = check alkalinity..get it to 7-8 dKH by stop dosing alk...maybe stop dosing EVERYTHING if it gets bad.
3) Monti caps bleaching = Cut the vodka dosage in half and stay there until the cap starts to color up and/or lower the lighting photoperiod for a bit or have a light "day off."
4) Everything dies = Blame the wife, kids, or something other than your own possible mistakes )

1) substrate hardening = keep it broken up and siphoned with water changes. Maintain a good high PH of 8.1 - 8.3

Read more: MicroBacter7/Vodka dosing guide

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Heterotrophic bacteria are the first to develop on a sand bed. Heterothrophs are simply bacteria that use organic compounds for their carbon source. Just like you Newbies, they chow down on just about anything that is placed in front of them. When the compound is something like a protein, that contains nitrogen, some of that nitrogen is excreted as ammonia. This of course is toxic to fish and invertebrates.

There is another group of bacteria, called autotrophs, that get their carbon directly from carbon dioxide. As an energy source they oxidize ammonia to create nitrite and nitrates. The problem with autotrophs is they do not grow nearly as fast as heterotrophs (the only thing slower is that Newbie mind of yours) and it takes time to seed a UGF with sufficient numbers to do much good. Usually it takes 7-10 days for enough nitrifying bacteria to populate a filter and allow it to convert ammonia to less toxic forms. It is interesting that there is a large debate on which bacteria actually accomplish nitrification in an aquarium. Candidates are, but not limited to, Nitrosomonas, Nitrosococcus, Nitrosospira, Nitrobacter, Nitrosovibrio, Nitrosolobus, and Nitrospina. No matter what the genus is involved, the heterothrophs produce the ammonia and carbon dioxide on which the nitrifying bacteria live so they form a close association with them in the filter media.

I have a rx volume of 1 l and a flow of 1500 l/h in it

Next Reef has come out with a new specialized reactor for NP Biopellets, or similar biodegradable medias.

The SMR1 NP holds 1 liter of np biopellets and a suggested flow rate of 350 gph

. The input and output sizes have been pumped up to 5/8″ (compared to 1/2″ in the MR1 media reactor) for less restriction, and the unit includes a mounting bracket for clean sump installation. Keep an eye out for an XL model. It will feature the same size as the MR1 XL–23″ tall and 6″ in diameter.

Next Reef SMR1 NP Biopellet Reactor – MSRP $109.99

Height: 16″ Overall Height / 14″ Reaction Chamber (405mm / 355mm)
Width: 6″ Overall (150mm)
Reaction Chamber: 14″ x 4″ (355mm x 100mm)
Inlet / Outlet: 5/8″ 90 Degree Barb Fittings

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Bacterial Blooms - High additions of carbon sources at once are noted as production of slimy white strings upon rocks or in sumps that become noticeable a few hours to a day after addition. There is no clear evidence that this is detrimental to your tank. If this is observed dropping your dose by 50% will result in the disappearance of these strands.

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